Monday, April 23, 2012

west of the sun



the last "leg of our journey" took us to the western wilderness and the 'cleanest air in australia'. i can very happily say that i have absolutely no reason to contest this statement, as it was absolutely pristine, magnificent, and very unexpected in many many ways. 

we stayed two nights at lake st clair, the traditional end of 'australia's premier long distance walking track' the overland track, where we were back in the swag. this paid unbelievable dividends with night time nature viewing from our happy little cocoon. it turns out to be a particular comfortable, efficient and easy way to camp.

there were many treks you could do from lake st clair of varying degrees of difficulty and distance. we ventured on a couple of these, that provided a really rather remarkable experience. even the shortest of the walks took you on a journey through landscapes that changed frequently and presented the type of forest you forget australia possesses. it also showcased many of the weird and wonderful flora and fauna australia has to offer, including the rather adorable and friendly baby echidna. and then there were the pretty magnificent vistas that you just had to sit on a log and take in. 












Wednesday, April 11, 2012

hobart


we did not spend more than an afternoon or two in hobart itself, which was a bit disappointing as what we saw was an entirely charming and surprisingly creative mix. walking along the docks, into salamanca and in the surrounding areas, we found a delightful combination of nature and urban. it feels as if there is a layering of history in hobart where the old is embraced and made new. there was in as much part a feeling of dynamism and creativity as there was of the rugged rural small town feel. i really would have liked to have explored more, and enjoyed the well known markets in salamanca. as it was we were still able to enjoy some very fine food in the multitude of eateries, and join all the hobartites enjoying a bevvy on sunday afternoon. and monday afternoon. probably tuesday as well i imagine. 
a couple of photos below, it seems we didn't pull the camera out much in hobart, but trust me, it was VERY photo worthy! 
 






Thursday, April 05, 2012

+ x + x + x

when planning our time in tasmania, everyone declared that we must visit mona. and david walsh's museum of old and new art really is a must see. knowing very little of the museum or the owner, only tales of a poo making machine and that we should "expect to be confronted", and not really knowing what even that meant, our friends kindly showed us a short snippet about it's opening and filled us in on the rather unique story. 

the owner, a professional gambler, high school drop out, art collector and now giving back to hobart. really a rather eccentric and arguably egotistical individual it seems loves to create controversy and is rather successful. he has however, also engaged some amazing people to create mona and it is very impressive.

taking the mona ferry from hobart, it is a thirty minute cruise along the derwent river to arrive at the museum. we were not really prepared for how impressive the architecture itself would be. situated on a small peninsula with mt wellington as a backdrop, as we arrived walking up the steep concrete steps to the entrance, the spectacular blue skies only enhanced the sandstone and rust that makes the building.

inside the museum itself, it is incredibly well curated and has fully embraced technology to make the experience as interactive but unobtrusive as possible. we were given ipod type things that would guide us through the works, that were all unsigned. the ipods determine where you are in the museum at any point in time and provide information on the nearby art works. each piece was also accompanied by "art wank" and "gonzo" to provide as much insight as you could want. it also records your tour and emails it to you so you can review it later, which was all really rather cool.

three levels of art underground, there is no natural light, but the sandstone walls made for a spectacular back drop. the art ranged from the weird to the wonderful, antique pieces recreated or arranged becoming new art in their own way, art that provokes all the senses (not necessarily for the better with one room smelling potently of a pig sty - i suppose this was part of the confronting), live art, and so much more. most of it clever and thought provoking, or making you giggle.

in the end, we kept coming back to the physical museum that was an art work in itself and completely blew us away. 

"fat car" by erwin wurm
a particularly popular piece that as we stood observing, became of great amusement to two gentlemen from rural australia. as it turned out they had never before been to an art gallery or museum. they did not entirely grasp the concept of not touching the art and were causing the museum staff quite a lot of concern. 
the piece is accompanied by the line "fat people should be ostracised, like smokers" i guess that is part of why david walsh is considered controversial. i suppose calling artists dumb is also going to upset a few people. the accompanying gonzo writing also entertained me quite some.

MISTY
By David Walsh
My sister Lindy and her daughter Misty went to the Sandy Bay Regatta. This was about twenty years ago. Misty was ten or eleven, I think. A man gave Misty a pie. She ate it. He gave her another. She ate that too. This continued for some time. 'That nice man gave me some pies,' she said to Lindy.
Misty won the pie-eating competition.
"mortuary amulets mounted as a modern pendant"

as you walk around mona, there are glass cabinets that look the same as you would find in any museum from a distance, however, when you get closer they invariably contain something unusual. the above amulets for instant were taken and made into a necklace. several cabinets contained artifacts from periods spanning across two thousand years randomly floating in water. there is absolutely no chronology to the presentation of the museum, declaring that "randomness is the key to the museum" and it certainly made it interesting.

"bit.fall" by julius popp

  water droplets fall from a fountain installation to spell out words such as "Water", "Jesse James" and "London" to represent the changes in our brains and selves caused by the incessant flood of information we are exposed to by the media and the age of communication technology. this was a particularly mesmerising installation.

"pulse room"
two bars protrude from a podium with the first in a series of flashing light bulbs hanging from the ceiling, going along the corridor and into a room of seemingly randomly flashing bulbs. when you take hold of the bars, it records your pulse which is then transmitted through the light blub, flashing in time with your pulse. as you move away and the next person steps up to the podium there is a small pause and all the pulsing lights shuffle along one. so as the day progresses the museum visitors pulses are recorded in the room. 
 the electronic tour companion explains that "This work uses incandescent light bulbs. They are illegal in Australia, on environmental grounds, so we shipped them in from China."

















there are also some pretty special areas on the mona peninsula including an outdoor concert area, various restaurants and bars, the moo brewery and even a hotel if you have a spare abundance of money you feel like spending to stay the night. we chose to instead enjoy the free bean bags and view on the lawns.










Tuesday, April 03, 2012

ye olde richmond


an utterly blissful week of coast and seclusion led us to arrive next  in the historic village of richmond with the oldest bridge in australia... the oldest operating post office... and several other historic monuments of note, which all means beautiful sand stone buildings, lovely cottages lining the streets and a rather quaint village.
staying with dear family friends in one such cottage meant we had the perfect place to explore the area, indulge in great food, wine and company and sample a bit more of the amazing opportunities tasmania offered. from all the gushing are you getting that we loved loved LOVED it yet?
we had a really rather fortunate run of weather throughout or weeks in tasmania, which made enjoying the sites and nature easy, and having no plan rather delightful. less than thirty minutes from hobart and everything we wanted to do (cadbury's factory included...even if they no longer do tours, no longer have samples, etc etc. the bulk discount on the enormous amount we bought was worth it alone). coming up some posts on the must see MONA, our visits to hobart as well as more nature off of bruny island. 
below are some photos of richmond, we didn't take many photos around the towns and cities we visited for some reason. probably we were too busy drinking coffee or eating. however, the historic listed bridge seemed worthwhile capturing, with the iconic markings of convict labour on the sandstone, for a moment it was easy to believe we were back in the UK, except for the weather of course!