the black cock

We spent a blissfully relaxing week in Chianti, possibly the most famous region, certainly the most well known wine area in Italy. Renowned for the delicious Sangiovese wine that is identified by the regional stamp of the black cock or gallo nero we made sure to sample much of the local fare. In fact we expanded well beyond just the wine to the olive oil, famous Florentine steaks, wild boar salami’s and many scrumptious cheeses.

The famous postcard views of rolling hills decorated with vineyards, olive trees and magnificent stone villas with tree lined roads is particularly accurate to what we enjoyed everyday. Fortunately we were able to stay in two of Italy’s many magnificent agriturismo or farmhouse stays. In recent years in Italy there has been a growing trend of slow tourism that has branched out of the 1980s movement of slow food. An international campaign against the fast food phenomenon. Such movements encourage people to enjoy the local produce specialities of each region. Out of this, many farms have chosen to restore deteriorating stone barns and houses into beautiful but basic accommodations in the most remote and delightful locations.

Staying in such places lent itself particularly to enjoying the view from terraces with book in hand or later in the day with a glass of wine and nibble or two. And while the expectation in Tuscany is to cycle through the countryside, it turned out (thankfully from my viewpoint) to hire a car so we were able to visit many of the small castle, villages and farms throughout the region. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Chianti and it felt like you could spend much longer exploring each little area of Chianti to discover the hidden history within the countryside, such as discovering that the neighbouring villas either side of our agriturismo once belonged to Michelangelo, and the other Galileo. 

Enjoying the view and local delicacies as the sun sets

Exploring local villages and castles

Below. Our indulgence in Florentine steak on the charcoal grill - delicious!

about assisi

We spent almost a week in a camping ground just outside of Assisi, waking and going to bed each night with rather spectacular views of the famous Basilica Di San Francesco atop the hill. It was not until our final day that we really got to explore the town, and while it was possible a little quick to do the true spiritual experience that all the guide books speak of justice, we thoroughly enjoyed our wander in and about the town.

The Basilica itself is a thoroughly impressive sight as you look up the hill to Assisi, dominating the sides of the hill with its white marble walls, and up close it is every bit as vast and incredible as you anticipate. Entering through the lower piazza there are arches for surrounding the edges the draw the eye towards the cathedral. Although if you walk under these arches you are afforded a pretty picturesque view of the Tuscan countryside. The cathedral is actually two, an upper and a lower, and whilst thorough impressive on the outside, inside it is quite exceptional and warrants all the hype.

Stairs and steep laneways lead away from the cathedral offering more magnificent views but soon close in to become the narrow winding alleyways that we have become so fond of. Wandering around as the town awakens for the second time in the late afternoon as we were, you find many women leaning out their windows shouting to people below, providing a vibrant and rather entertaining atmosphere. Assisi is really an impossibly charming town, which is not surprising in the least given the number of tourists it draws everyday. 

Above & Below. The main piazza in Assisi and details

The beautiful stone buildings, archways and details that make Assisi so very charming 

Above. Basilica di San Francesco from the lower piazza 

Below. The stairs leading to the upper piazza and small cupola

Above. Details around the Basilica

Below. From the upper piazza looking towards the town, within five minutes of this being taken the town was no longer visible for the smoke arising from a pretty severe grass fire that had broken out in a field below the town

Above & Below.  A pretty peaceful and picturesque spot we stumbled upon to enjoy an evening aperitif

a happy place

Perugia has two annual festivals. A jazz festival, and a chocolate festival. What a great town!!! Sadly this time of year with the relentless sunshine, as you can imagine is not the ideal time for the chocolate festival, which reputedly involves statues being caved out of chocolate in the main square and at the end of the week one and all being allowed to descend on these temporary art pieces and devour them! Fortunately though we were able to be in Perugia for the Jazz Festival, which from what we saw and enjoyed, was pretty great.

The town of Perugia itself is an interesting mix of immaculately preserved palazzos and churches, with the ancient Etruscan walls, and the dirtier vibe of a university town in other parts of town (the exponential increase in kebab shops in one area is directly related to the presence of students we have found). Steep alleys lead up to the main piazza that runs along the ridge filled with amazing buildings, architecture, and we are led to believe art within these buildings, but with the promise of free jazz sitting under a shady tree meant we decided against the museums and for the live entertainment.

A stage arranged next to a small park or garden belonging to what was once and undoubtedly important building that we never discovered its purpose, with incredible views over Perugia as it moves down the hills and out across the countryside we sat amongst an eclectic mix of tourists, locals, musicians and students all enjoying the performances. First we saw the Bobby Broom Deep Blue Organ Trio from the United States, who entertained us all with some pretty classic and smooth blues. The Pedrito Martinez Group up next were a vibrant mix of Cuban mamba and African rhythms. My favourite band had to be Tuba Skinny, a band of young and incredibly talented musicians from New Orleans playing 1920s and 30s jazz style and some classics that were fantastic to listen and tap your feet to, but even better to watch some elderly Italians dressed all in white bust some serious moves along the pathways of the park. Funk Off played a street parade which topped our afternoon off nicely, as the band of 15 or so Italians danced and played their way up the main Piazza of Perugia with hundreds or possibly thousands of spectators walking and cheering along with them.

We had not anticipated our afternoon of jazz as we actually had tickets to that evenings show, Spectrum Road, followed by the David Murray Big Band featuring Macy Gray that was held in the ancient Roman Arena and made for a pretty special evening. Macy dazzled the crowds with her rather unique fashion choices – full length long sleeved purple sequin dress with black bows anyone? – not to mention the killer false eyelashes that would have made it hard to open your eyes. Her distinctive voice and the phenomenal music made for a great night.

Above.  The Bobby Broom Deep Blue Organ Trio

Above.  The Pedrito Martinez Group's amazing keyboard player

Above & below.  Tuba Skinny

Above.  Funk Off street parade making it's way up the main Piazza

Above.  Macy Gray's luscious lashes and rather spectacular outfit

* This photo is from the Umbria Jazz News Website