Monday, August 13, 2012

a bit overdue




We have fallen off the wagon a bit with posting the rest of our photos and stories from our time in Italy. It is probably because we are too busy salivating in the windows of patisseries and eating cheese. Paris is keeping us busy and very happy with the blue blue skies each day, but more on that later.

Firenze was our last stop in Tuscany and while we had both visited previously we were more than happy to revisit the incredible museums, cathedrals, streets and piazzas and even some of the places we did not have time to explore in the past.

After the quiet seclusion of the farms where we stayed and small isolated villages we visited Florence was equal parts affronting and exciting. The drive in to return the car was certainly an experience, and thankfully the police were very kind in providing directions when 'the navigator' tried to have me drive across Ponte Vecchio. On foot we were much more comfortable and happy to explore. And explore we did.

We wandered the streets and particularly enjoyed exploring the “south bank” where the pizza and gelato was far superior, the streets much less crowded and the vibe a bit edgier. There were some great restaurants, our favourite little Piazza della Passera that was a little piece of tranquility to enjoy a drink or gelato. We revisited museum giants such as Uffizzi and shuffled through the immense crowds to enjoy the magnificent artworks. Wandering up to Piazzale Michelangelo we enjoyed David the replica as well as one of many  spectacular sunsets over the beautiful bridges and rooftops of Florence.

In the leather markets we indulged in a few purchases and in the central food markets a few more, although these lasted far less time and we had to refrain from buying the many legs of prosciutto hanging. We did thoroughly relished the $3 bottles of considerably good wine readily available, although this was nothing new for our trip. We enjoyed free live music and piazza markets that offered samples of cheeses and organic beers.

Florence was quite alive and while we largely tried to avoid many of the main tourist areas (the line up to enter the Duomo went the entire way around the cathedral and it is a BIG cathedral) we were thankful that we had been before in quieter times. Although we soon realised that we had both in fact been to Florence in July and while busy, neither of us recalled it being so crazy. This brought us to consider whether we had suddenly become less patient and tolerant of crowds, and that we had somehow glorified the time that we spent there previously or Italy had become immensely more popular in recent years. It seems to me it must have been the latter as I have always been quite impatient and was very aware of the crowds when we spent two hours lining up for the museums in Florence previously. The queue is said to now be up to four hours each day, so we quickly concluded that we could splurge and pay the booking fee to avoid the queue.

Despite the crowds (which outside of the main tourist spots were few) we had a fantastic time in Firenze, it really is a beautiful city. More than anything we loved wandering the streets and enjoying the beautiful architecture and art everywhere in the city from beautiful marble statues to incredible frescoes. Oh and the gelato, we really enjoyed the gelato discovering a mojito flavour perfect for afternoon refreshers and after eight the perfect minty treat at the end of the day!


Above. Looking down the Arno river to the Uffizi Gallery on the left.


Above. The famous Ponte Vecchio with it's jewellery shops either side and an endless stream of tourists crammed in between.



Above. The delicious 'La Carraia' Gelateria home to the exquisite after eight. The Ricotta and Pear was pretty popular with us also.

 Above and below. The covered market filled with rather tempting foods.









 



The view of Firenze from Paizzale Michelangelo and just below the replica of David.





Above. Enjoying a live orchestra performance in the Piazza.

Friday, August 03, 2012

rosemary baby













On one of our days wandering about the Chianti area we found ourselves in the small town of San Gimignano. Described as the Medieval Manhattan in the Lonely guide… more fine writing as well as being reputed as home to some of Italy’s finest gelato (or the very least most prolific award winners). San Gimignano is an impossibly charming hill top town that is incredibly well preserved and restored, presented beautifully with beautiful urban landscapes and public art works galore and if it weren’t for the masses of tourists that roll through each day, I imagine a pretty idyllic place to spend a lovely summer break.

The reference to NYC made by those somewhat unimaginative travel writers refers to the fifteen medieval towers that rise from the town. Once far more numerous at 72, the towers became an age old size contest to prove who was bigger, wealthier and more powerful in the prominent  families of San Gimignano in the 13th century. Too bad they were all brought back down to size when the plague wiped out most of the population fifty years later.

We of course had to sample these gelatos for ourselves after such grand proclamations and could not help but try some of the more gourmet flavours on offer. The raspberry rosemary combination was a definite winner in our books, although blackberry and lavender pulled in a very close second. We visited many other delightful small towns, villages and castles set atop hills but there are too many to dedicate a post to every place (despite there being an abundance of photos from each), so we will skip to Florence next where we had a fantastic time exploring for four days.

 


Above. Around San Gimignano iron statues of men are positioned in (and above!!!) the town.


 

The delicious rosemary and raspberry gelato, and below a vintage vespa I would not mind owning one little bit!