the continental rift

The two other sites (apart from Geyser) making the golden triangle include Gullfoss: deemed Europe's or one of Europe's most powerful waterfalls, especially in early summer when the glaciers and snow are melting causing a serious cascade of water. Supposedly (according to the sign at Gullfoss) the water flow could fill 60 shipping containers in one second. The fall cascades over two levels and most definitely had some power, so much so, you got very wet attempting to go anywhere near the fall.

The third and final site, was a bit of a double whammy in Þingvellir National Park. At this point there is the site of Iceland's, and in fact the world's first democratic parliament, for it's historic significance of being the 'assembly grounds' where the viking chieftains would gather back in the day. It also has quite a bit of religious history for the church built there in which many a person was executed. Iceland's independence from Denmark was also officially declared here in 1944.

The other reason that Þingvellir  holds international renown, is that it is one of the world's 'greatest geological boundaries' the rift valley that marks where the North American and European continental plates are tearing apart. Perhaps not as distinctly prominent as we were expecting, it was certainly a rather spectacular location.

Above and below. The mighty Gullfoss, that amazingly freezes over in winter and appeared, from the photos I have seen, to be quite a sight indeed. 

Above and below. Looking over the 'rift' to the site of the original parliament house and church.  

Above. The small timber church.

Below. One of the more famous aspects of the 'rift' where incredibly clear water runs through the cliffs and where you can also dive between the plates... but the obscene expense and required dry suit was enough to put us off. 

gushing geysers

Probably the most 'touristy' of all areas in Iceland is the 'golden triangle' a series of three sites all within a day trip from Reykjavic. Large tourist buses hustle people from site to site and safely back to the capital for the evening. Fortunately we were staying in the middle of the 'triangle' and able to visit the sites while avoiding the hoards. 

First on our itinerary were the geysers, circular steaming pools on the hillside in a geothermal area that boasts temperatures of 125˚C to 200˚C - so no wandering off the path or testing the waters for us! 

There are a surprising number of pools around the area recognised as 'Geysir' but the most famous is its namesake 'Geysir' or the Gusher, which was known to shoot water 70m into the air during its heyday. It has been inactive for many-a-year since, the locals supposedly having to dump up to 50kg of soap into the pool to get a spurt have long since given up on it, although an earthquake in 2008 has supposedly made it somewhat infrequently active once more. 

The nearby Strokkur (the Churn) is therefore much more popular for its 30m spout every ten or so minutes. While we were there, it was kind enough to put on a show, spurting three consecutive times, really very entertaining and quite amazing! 

Above. Smaller steaming pools of magnificent blue waters dotted about the park.

Below. The famous steaming 'Geysir' was significantly larger than the other pools, the only hint of its spectacular spouts back in the day.

 Below. The 'Strokkur' deceptive when still, but the large bulging bubble is the giveaway that she is about to blow (although it all happens so quickly, many people are caught out missing the shoot and only left with the watery steaming mist) 

 

 Above. The warning bubble.

Below. The full spout of the 'Strokkur' geyser.

 

left. right. left.

The south coast of Iceland is home to many of Iceland's most well-known and visited national parks, including Skaftafell National Park, Iceland's premier hiking destination.

Many stop to do the short hour's walk that takes in a few waterfalls, while this featured on our itinerary,  Ash had selected for us a highly recommended, nice 'medium' difficulty hike that was 'supposed' to take around four hours (although four hours turned out to be six when the guide was re-read upon our return to the car) to do a 15 kilometre circuit within the National Park. The walk was described to me rather inaccurately, as Ash selectively used the guide book's wording of a 'short ascent', a 'rewarding circuit', 'picturesque' and with 'magnificent views'; while leaving out the 'icy', 'wind blasting your face', 'steep, indistinct track' also described in the guide.

We outlasted the harder looking hikers on the path with their full boots and hiking poles who all turned back, and eventually it was conceded, after spending two hours walking through snow, that yes perhaps this was a bit of an ambitious hike. Admittedly, neither of us had fully appreciated the laid-back attitude in Iceland towards defined paths, warning signs, any precaution to weather hazards, and the like. I suppose when your country is riddled with dangerous cliffs, 200+ degree geothermal areas, glaciers and unpredictable weather you would be too. 

Fortunately the walk was overall incredible (despite all of the uphill, which for those of you who know me, know I particularly hate) and there were in fact the promised magnificent views.  

Above and below. The first part of the walk is weaves through dwarf birch thickets that were just starting to get their leaves. You could see right out to the coast across twisting and intertwined glacial streams. The sun was shining and so far the walk was nice and easy.

Above. The walk we did was the area of Skaftafell National Park between two very large glaciers. The start of the walk headed east to the first glacier. 

Below. Once arriving at the top of the grassy plateau you could see across to what we later realised was Skaftafellsjokull glacier in the distance which we would walk to a rather impressive valley overlooking it. 

 Above and below. While walking along this long grassy crest I was enjoying the view and amazing small plants, still oblivious to the fact that the mountains hidden over the crest were where we were headed. 

Below. A timely lunch break with a pretty incredible perspective overlooking the glacier. 

  

Above. After stumbling up more steep scree and continuing to walk further and further past the mountain peaks visible in the distance of earlier photos the path swung along the top of the valley between us and the mountain, around the side of the mountain through snow, and more snow (very tasting refreshing snow I will admit) and along the top of another valley.

Below. The mountain snow path, occasional footprints and an even rarer wooden stake in the distance.

Below. Finally making it to the other side of the second valley and beginning to have glimpses of the second valley below. This side was far marshier and began the blissful descent. All was right in the world once more.

Above. Looking through a small chasm down to the glacier and across the marshy grass crest out to the sea.

Below. The mountains we traversed slowly receding into the distance. 

Above and below. As we continued to descend mossy marsh became low willow thicket that was incredible and vibrant shades of red, orange and yellow.

Below. Our descent culminated in the series of waterfalls that the National Park is most well known for. The below Svartifoss Waterfall cascades over an amazing basalt rock cliff.