Monday, May 19, 2014

a little village on the side of a mountain

From Porto we headed north to the border with Spain, also the home of Portugal's only national park Peneda-Gerês National Park, which also happens to be a UNESCO biosphere. 
The park itself is divided both geographically but also characteristically. The northern part being far more rugged  consisting of granite mountains scattered with small agricultural villages and linked by ancient roman roads and incredible terracing along the slopes for farming.
The southern part in contrast was more populated by bees (there seemed to be hives everywhere) in the dense oak forests. We visited the south for a day, but stayed in the northern part, in a gorgeous cottage perched on the mountain. 
Our terrace and balcony afforded us stunning views across the valley and the elderly couple that had built the cottage (and subsequently three more cottages) had created idyllic gardens to stroll through. An impressive feat in itself given how steep it was. More than anything, the way they had used the traditional methods to create gorgeous accommodations that were modern and each so unique amazed us. 
Needless, we could have spent many more days enjoying the views and exploring around the park...
 Below. The newer accommodations with views down to the river. The only thing lacking was the transformation of the gravel rooftop into a garden, or perhaps a swimming pool (although they did have a rather lovely one further down the hill...)
 Above. Our small, more 'traditional' cottage. Below. The sun beds where we (well predominantly I) passed a lot of time book in hand absorbing some much needed Vitamin D.


Monday, May 12, 2014

porto oporto

The night we arrived in Porto, the receptionist at the guesthouse sat us down with a  glass of port and proceeded to plot our itinerary for the next three days. His first suggestion was that we go to a local sandwich place to have the famous local 'delicacy' Francesinha. In my mind, this was a particularly disgusting meal consisting of bread layered with ham, sausage, steak, topped with an egg, melted cheese, accompanied by fries and drenched in a beer and tomato sauce that I can only describe as somewhere between canned baked beans and gravy. I suspect one should really only consume in extremely drunken situations, it was however immensely popular with the locals, and fortunately thereafter we enjoyed all of our Portuguese meals infinitely more.
Our hosts advice however, I was immensely sceptical of. He insisted that we went to the Port on Sunday as all the locals do and enjoy some fresh fish. Thankfully this piece of advice held true and while not the most scenic location, the roadside grill created a delicious feast. Followed by a coastal stroll, we enjoyed watching the locals going about their Sunday business, playing cards on the beach, strolling the boardwalk in inappropriate footwear (albeit the women navigated the boards in stilettos rather impressively) and soaked up the Vitamin D we have been so very deprived of!

Thursday, May 08, 2014

oh, porto

We began our Portugeuse adventure in the colourful and charming Porto. It is a
UNESCO listed medieval town that is a lot more rustic than its southern rival in Lisbon, but also far more romantic. We wandered the town for two days - quite a work out trekking up and down the hilly cobblestone alleys, across the river, up to churches, down the streets and back again. 

There was such a mix of crumbling, almost ruins with grandiose buildings of old, charming tiled terraced buildings with ultra modern additions that all somehow combine really well. Wandering from a great restaurant or bar to check out a cathedral, from urban markets to enjoy the sunshin in the park, the port caves to sample a port or two (it is the home of Port after all) or just to enjoy local delicacy (challenge of consuming a Portuguese tart a day: accepted!), and hte advantage of those hills is the amazing views afforded when making it to the top.

It was incredible to me how noteably Portugal had changed since I was there last. I am not sure if this means that tourism has really boomed in the country, things have changed rapidly, or those adventures I reminisce about are (rather scarily) long enough ago that of course things have changed! Either way, with everyone speaking English, people being so friendly, great new efficient and punctual public transport and sunshine galore, it was a thoroughly pleasant country to travel.




Below. The stunning cloisters within the cathedral, masked from the outside (above).